The concept of "quiet luxury" has stormed the fashion aesthetics in recent years, pushing the "loud and showy" to the sidelines. Perhaps it's the pandemic, or the current state of the economy, but it just seems that life has slowed down in the last few years. Flashy runways no longer hold the same appeal, and understated elegance is the new trend.
Whenever I think of "quiet luxury," I immediately list "old-money" style favorites like The Row, Loro Piana, Totême, Ralph Lauren, you name it. At some point, an unassuming person walking into a room without drawing excessive attention to themselves became exactly who catches our eye.
Pop culture has certainly influenced the "quiet luxury" trend. HBO's Succession sparked this trend, as the subtlety and minimalism preferred by ultra-wealthy characters like Kendall Roy embody this style. Social media is replete with reels and content on how to adopt "old money chic." The hashtag #quietluxury has 153,109 posts on Instagram and over 298.1 million views on TikTok.
I am not a fashion expert, but I often ponder the notion of "quiet luxury" and what gives it its "luxurious" quality — somehow, I think there should be more to the "old money" brand names and influencer culture. Is it quality? Craftsmanship? Sophistication with a hint of inwardness? Maybe it's all of them.
Let's first look at some stunning pieces with the 'quiet luxury' vibe that really struck me
The other day, I came across some amazing lacquerware accessory pieces that immediately struck me. That's when I was inspired to understand the true essence of "quiet luxury" — what gives the luxurious quality is the "timelessness", the minimalistic aesthetics, that may look effortlessly graceful, but preserve a moment in time to last beyond the fleeting fashion.
What better encapsulates the concept of preserving enduring beauty than traditional lacquerware craftsmanship? The finished product might appear effortless and minimalist, but if you get to know the creation process, you could be awed by the tremendous amount of patience and dedication required to achieve such exquisite craft - all understated and meticulous efforts.
These Chinese lacquerware pieces below were created by an artist friend of mine, Fang Chen, whom I met a few months ago. The avocado "茶则chaze" (on the left), a teaspoon used in traditional Chinese tea ceremonies, encapsulates an avocado within natural lacquer, preserving its beauty in an anti-corrosive manner. Although it may seem like a simple craft, it takes several months to apply the lacquer layers and create the entire piece - such meticulousness!
Natural lacquer: more expensive than gold
The Chinese lacquerware technique, which traces its roots back over 7,000 years, represents an artistic expression of resilience and patience.
Due to natural lacquer’s good adhesiveness, nice color, water-resistant and fade-resistant properties, along with its hardness and durability, lacquer has been used as a coating for a long time.
Lacquer, when applied to various objects, results in everyday items and artworks collectively known as lacquerware. However, due to the intricate craftsmanship needed and the low yield of raw lacquer, lacquerware has been quite expensive since ancient times. As such, it has long been valued by the elite for its beauty and durability, serving as a symbol of status and wealth.
The creation of lacquerware needs considerable patience. The process begins with the sap of the lacquer tree, a natural substance that transforms into a durable, glossy coating that protects and beautifies the object it adorns.
Natural lacquer is globally recognized as the "king of coatings." A lacquer tree over its entire life cycle can only yield 10 kilograms of raw lacquer. It takes 3,000 lacquer trees to collect one kilogram of raw lacquer! And there is a strict system and method for tapping lacquer — a slight mishap can lead to the death of the lacquer tree, hence the saying, "a hundred miles and a thousand cuts for one kilogram of lacquer."
To prevent harm to the lacquer tree during extraction, measures are taken such as resting the tree for a few days after continuous extraction and ensuring at least a year gap between each extraction from the same tree.
Lacquer farmers usually enter the mountains at midnight, and they must change the clamshell (which is used to collect the lacquer) every few seconds, which is why the price of lacquer on the market today is extremely expensive. (source)
Once the lacquer is collected, it will be applied to the base material, which could be wood, bamboo, or metal in traditional practice.
The lacquer, once extracted, is applied in thin layers. Each layer must dry and harden in a humidity-controlled environment before the next is applied. For a typical lacquerware piece to complete, it takes a minimum of 20-30 layers of application, which amounts to at least months of craftsman's work. This is a process that demands patience and precision.
After several layers, the surface is polished to a high shine, and decorations can be added. Techniques such as carving, inlaying with precious materials, or painting with colored lacquers introduce intricate details and vibrant stories into the piece.
I highly recommend this YouTube video that highlights the intricate process of creating a lacquerware. This video shows 76 steps from winter to early autumn involved in lacquerware creation — it’s quite meditative to watch!
An intimate relationship with nature
A few months ago, I came across some lacquerware pieces by young artists and designers, who are innovating the old technique with modern inspirations.
Some sealed the ink marks, inspired by calligraphy:
Some captured tranquil moments of a dusky evening when the whispers of bamboo leaves can be heard:
One truly creative approach they are using is utilizing real leaves and fruits of plants as the base material, instead of more traditional materials like woods and metals.
For instance, the lacquerware brooch that preserves an actual fruit:
or a real Ramie leaf:
For the wearer to carry the journey of a falling leaf with them — I simply can't imagine anything more poetic than that.
It's not just about creating beauty; it's about preserving a moment in time, a piece of nature, and presenting it in a understated and elegant way that speaks to the contemporary soul.
Preserving the moment
An ancient Chinese poem once praised:
"Raw lacquer is as pure as oil, its treasured light shines upon one’s head; it stirs up the color of tiger stripes, like lifting a fishing hook; penetrating wood three parts deep, its luster forever remains."
This describes the physical properties of lacquer, such as its resistance to corrosion and penetration.
To me, the essence of Chinese lacquerware lies not only in its physical beauty but in the symbolic meanings embedded within its creation and use. Resilience is a core theme, reflected in both the material, functions, and the creation method.
Patience is equally integral to the craft. The slow, deliberate application of each layer, the waiting, the polishing—all these steps require a level of patience that transcends the ordinary. In a world that often prizes speed and efficiency, lacquerware serves as a reminder of the value of slowing down, of giving attention and care to our endeavors.
This immediately struck me with the essence of "quiet luxury" — a lasting beauty that transcends fleeting fashion trends. Effortless finishing doesn't come without effort. Instead, it's achieved through diligence and intricate craftsmanship, the quiet, understated effort that often doesn't get the spotlight.
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In the age of AI and automation, human efforts and intentions matter more than ever. Human intention, not just effort, adds value to objects and experiences — they are the spirit fueling innovation in the age of AI. Our deepest connections are formed with artisan pieces crafted with love, warmth, and human creativity, where each creation whispers its own spiritual message.
I am a passionate advocate for handmade and artisanal products and all forms of creative endeavors. Every pledge and tip you contribute will be directed to local charities and nonprofits within my community, dedicated to fostering creative projects and preserving traditional craftsmanship. (I give them spotlights here :) )
At Amber Sealed, I only curate a selection of unique crafts and gifts. These creatively distinctive items are not available on platforms like Amazon or Temu. A portion of every purchase goes to the nonprofits and charities I support.
